A nearby rock climbing area from Kansai. Within one hour from Kyoto. “Sengoku Iwa”, a rock climbing area in Shiga.

A nearby rock climbing area from Kansai. Within one hour from Kyoto. “Sengoku Iwa”, a rock climbing area in Shiga.

2023年3月29日

Access to Sengoku Iwa

We went climbing to a famous rock face located in Otsu City, Shiga. It is also recorded in Japan’s 100 famous rock faces.

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フリークライミング日本100岩場4 東海・関西 増補改訂最新版
価格:2530円(税込、送料無料) (2022/12/27時点)


Information such as parking and approach is available on CLIMBING-NET POWERED BY ROCK & SNOW

You can arrive at Otsukyo Station from Kyoto in about 10 minutes.

大津京駅からのアクセスルート

If you are coming by car, you can take the Kosei Expressway and get off at the “Oujigaoka” exit, which is only a few minutes away. Then, park your car in the spacious parking lot and walk to the climbing spot.

車でのアクセスルート

After hiking for several tens of minutes on the trail located behind the Hayao shrine, a large rocky area can be seen on the right side, which is the destination called Sengoku Iwa.

Climbing the Normal Route 5.7

We started by climbing the “Normal Route 5.7” that we beginners could handle. A Shiga-based climber led us smoothly and set up the finishing point. Could we beginners climb it smoothly too?

千石岩ノーマルルート5.7に挑戦する様子

We started climbing the Normal Route 5.7, saying “let’s go,” but it was difficult from the start, and we struggled with our short legs.

ノーマルルートを登り始める様子
ホールドを掴んで登る様子

Although it took time and the rock was cold due to the season, we were able to climb it to the end, but our moves were amateurish. This time, we had a guest who was climbing and climbing outside for the first time, but we were able to climb it after taking some time.

  • 外岩初めてのゲストが挑戦する様子
  • 苦戦しながらも登り切る様子
  • サポートを受けながら登る様子
  • ホールドを探しながら登る様子
  • 無事登り切ったゲスト

Attempting the Harder Route

We played on the Normal Route a few times and then attempted the “Impressive! 5.11a” on the main face. Shiga climbers lowered the rope at the finishing point on the way up.

終了点からロープを下ろす地元クライマー

Of course, we cannot climb 5.11, but if we say that, we won’t get anywhere.

  • 岩の質感が分かる千石岩のメインフェイス
  • メインフェイスを登るクライマー
  • 難しいホールドに苦戦する様子
  • 挑戦を終えたクライマー

We struggled at the subtly hanging first obstacle and played with it many times, but of course, we couldn’t climb it all the way. After five years, my husband and I, who have been steadily gaining weight without any sign of improving our climbing skills, will continue to enjoy Shiga’s rock faces while maintaining our beginner level.

福岡県 外岩のメッカ 日向神ダム 初心者向け クライミングエリア トポ 道端エリア トンネルエリア